Friday, July 02, 2021

In The Devils Garden - A Review by D. Vour - 2 of 4 revised

 Review and Commentary by D. Vour


 Gourmand, & Food Critic, at “The Home"

 “In The Devils Garden - A Sinful History Of Forbidden Food”
by Stewart Lee Allen --  Ballantine Books 



Chapter Two – of Four

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We all have favorite foods, and some have traditional places in time, season, or related superstitions ... have you ever tossed salt over your shoulder? Ever been curious why bacon, eggs, toast, and cereal are considered just for breakfast? They weren't for centuries. How did that evolve? We have classic and traditional holiday meals – Turkey feast at thanksgiving comes to mind, or a Christmas Goose, Ham at Easter, even 'Day of the Dead' feasts for the Mexican culture. We all have foods made to celebrate various religious dates. This goes back past ancient Egypt, the Romans, and Greeks.. who have each successively co-opted the others holy day feasts … unto modern times.

Many years ago I saw an intriguing documentary on foods – exploring the idea that food was a big factor why the ancient Roman soldier was so successful. 

They contrasted what the Roman army ate against the sumptuous banquets and the omnivorous diet of the aristocracy; warrior food, versus royal food. 

The documentary recreated the soldiers recipes from ancient cookbooks, prepared, and reviewed the flavors of the foods – even checked nutritional values – It was all quite different than modern times I assure you. 

The food and flavors would never be accepted today, - using herbs, and plants,and ingredients that in modern days would never cross your lips, but were popular favorites of the Roman troops of the day. Flavors that would make a modern person gag. Overripe and putrid foods, and just 'nasty stuff'. Some dishes and sauces were too nasty and not edible ... even by the TV crew. 

However, the idea that one type of food was only acceptable to certain classes was an eye opener to this omnivorous writer … I never followed up on this interesting idea until this book arrived .. but I digress..

I will try to give a sense of the depth and scope of this insanely fun, informative and equally challenging tome. There is a remarkable range of food information covered, and I doubt that I will ever think about any food in the same way ever again. 

The author - Steward Lee Allen – makes wonderful and remarkably intriguing connections, and tells amazing and fascinating stories of how foods have been used to shape history. He utilizes a clever format for the sections, the seven deadly sins. 

He ties these sins to an incredible array of foods and ideas; religious, political, and social. He offers great anecdotes about how these foods have come to associated with the appropriate sins. With 10 pages of fine print bibliography, it is very well researched. 

This book reads like a travelogue around the globe, but through time and places, past and present, covering the four corners. and several ancient civilizations !

Each chapter starts with an appropriate menu to that sin, and there are a few incredible recipes offered from the menus, all done with a delightful bit of tongue in cheek wit liberally applied, reflecting a modern twist on some interesting old foods or drinks – all worth trying at home. Absinthe with Champagne sounded pretty interesting. All look fun, some for curiosity, some because they still taste great ! .

This is a complicated tale of how food has played a role in evolving everything – all aspects of history -- not just physical history, but the whole evolution of our core religious, sociological, anthropological, political, emotional and psychological beliefs! It's a tale of how these ideas and beliefs can be manipulated by society, social organizations, corporations and religions, to affect what we believe, and thus ultimately in modern times : how we buy, eat and see the products we get – often symbolically.

Ketchup, is our modern metaphor for 'blood' (representing a fresh kill when we go out 'hunting' for food -ie driving for a burger). We learn that salads are traditionally 'woman’s food'. As an historical fact, at one time in the 1800's, women were only allowed to eat salads.. meat was forbidden, thus today, commercials selling salads feature women, because we have been inculcated by time and DNA, and traditions, that salads are for 'women folk'.

Conversely, meat is for men. We only see 'He-men' at a BBQ grill in TV meat commercials ! (how would you feel seeing a woman grilling a steak, or a football player eating a dainty salad in those commercials?) - these feelings are created and manipulated to make us think a certain way, by promoting or prohibiting foods! We even have had restrictions on what we can eat on certain days; meatless Monday, fish on Friday. Marketeers know that everyone likes to break rules .. so if it is 'forbidden' or Taboo, you will crave it. We tend to give higher marks to food we feel guilty about. Ever feel guilty eating something? That was because you were manipulated to feel that guilt.. and guilt sells! If you put a warning label on food .. the sales surge ! Why?

This book helps us understand a lot of those why's !


... to be continued..




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